I’m in Sant’Ambrogio at Pollini: a father-son outfit (Sergio and Pierpaolo), with a smaller menu than others. It’s the first time I’ve tried lampredotto NOT mixed in with other ingredients because my friend and I get there at 2pm and the “doctored” lampredotto is, alas, already sold out. A deep breath and down it goes: pure lampredotto in a panino. I ask for it to be lathered in salsa verde, spicy sauce, salt and pepper. The lid of the bun is dipped in the broth and I brace myself.

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